In this month's edition of This is WA, read about exploring Perth and beyond with Qantas' non-stop flights from London, the start of truffle season, Aloft's first Australian property and an award-winning Kimberley campground. There's also a special feature on whale watching – plus all the latest news on WA tours, accommodation, food, wine and events.

WHAT'S HOT

Easy to explore Perth with non-stop London flights
Travellers have quickly snapped up the first seats on Qantas' landmark non-stop flights between London and Perth, which take off from March 24 next year. With Qantas and Tourism WA working together to provide fares allowing a Perth stopover at no extra charge for international and interstate passengers – along with options to fly into regional WA – visitors from the UK can comfortably kick-start their Australian experience in WA, while east-coast Australians can take a break in the West before connecting to the London leg.
It's an ideal opportunity to discover Perth's unique blend of urban and nature-based experiences, with a wine region, desert landscapes, wildlife and aquatic adventures all on the doorstep of Australia's sunniest capital city – as well as great value accommodation and some of the nation's best restaurants and freshest produce.

• Check out Perth stopover itineraries at westernaustralia.com

British adventurer and author Simon Reeve says people arriving in Perth will experience a modern, world-class city that's undergoing big changes. “It has 19 city beaches, a huge city park that's bigger than Central Park in New York, great nightlight, culture, bars, restaurants, hotels,” Simon says.
Perth is a convenient springboard to other wonders of WA serviced by Qantas including the pearling paradise of Broome, World Heritage Listed Ningaloo Reef, turquoise waters around Geraldton and outback gold-rush history in Kalgoorlie.
The inaugural daily London-Perth 17-hour non-stop flights – the first regular passenger service directly linking Australia and Europe – have almost sold out since bookings opened in late April. Economy fares start from $2,270 (but could drop below $2,000 during sale periods) on board Qantas' Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner, designed specifically for long-haul services.

Season's first truffles – and winter hunts are back
Truffle season has officially started in WA's Southern Forests with the first delicacies unearthed earlier than usual in Manjimup, in the heart of truffle country around three hours' drive south of Perth. From next month, visitors can also participate in an exclusive food experience as The Truffle & Wine Co. becomes one of only a few truffières in the world to offer truffle hunting experiences. From June to August on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, groups of up to 12 guests can join highly trained dogs as they sniff out rare and delicious black truffles in Manjimup's tranqil forests.

Riverside reaches new heights with Aloft
Australia's first Aloft hotel will open in the Perth suburb of Rivervale on May 26, adding 224 modern rooms to an emerging district about halfway between Perth Airport and the CBD. Part of the Marriott group, Aloft is known for its open and upbeat style, industrial-urban aesthetic, and sophisticated designs incorporating local influences and savvy use of space. The 15-storey property is near the Swan River and within walking distance of the Crown precinct and the cutting-edge Perth Stadium, which opens next year. The on-site Springs Kitchen will deliver modern, approachable all-day dining from head chef Giovanni Di Serio (formerly of Nolita, Asado and Lalla Rookh). Guests can also enjoy the W XYZ bar, an outdoor terrace, a rooftop function centre with river views, a gym and a pool. Opening specials start from $167 per night.

Award-winning experiences

• Accolade for Kimberley camping project
  The Kimberley community of Imintji – on the spectacular Gibb River Road – offers travellers a unique chance to combine comfortable outback camping with authentic Aboriginal experiences and tours to Bell Gorge and Tunnel Creek. Imintji has won a Planning Institute of Australia award as part of Tourism WA's pioneering project, Camping with Custodians, in which Indigenous communities operate commercial campgrounds and other initiatives on their own land.
  
  
• Ningaloo Reef makes top 10 on 'best trips' list
  WA's pristine Ningaloo Reef is the only Australian destination in international magazine Outside's 26 Best Trips of 2017. The World Heritage aquatic paradise, roughly halfway along WA's coastline, features in seventh place, receiving particular praise for its thriving reef (which is so close to shore you can paddle to it) and wildlife such as whale sharks and humpbacks (both of which you can swim next to on in-water interaction tours) – before visitors relax in a luxury tent at Sal Salis.
  
  
• Swan Valley distillery toasts multiple awards
  Perth boutique gin and vodka producer Old Young's has good reason to celebrate its first birthday after winning Champion Australian Distiller at the Australian Distilled Spirit Awards, and Best International Vodka at the American Distilling Institute Craft Spirit Awards. Owner James Young has won 20 accolades in the past month for his creations, which can be sampled in the tranquil Swan Valley, just 30 minutes' drive from central Perth.

LIFESTYLE AND CULTURE

ArtDrive goes the extra mile in 2017
Visitors to WA's Mid West will encounter more than just spectacular wildflowers in late winter and spring this year when ArtDrive returns with more installations and locations than ever. From July 31 to late October, the self-drive tour will feature 30 original artworks under the theme 'Old is New Again'. Starting and finishing at the Geraldton Visitor Centre, the full 270 kilometre route can be leisurely explored in around five hours, offering a unique way to discover the region's turquoise coast, rich cultures, rural charm – and, of course, breathtaking wildflowers. Maps and guides will be available online or from the Geraldton Visitor Centre.

No obstacle: Perth to host major Spartan contest
Elite competitors in a worldwide obstacle-course phenomenon will descend on WA from November 23-26 this year when Perth hosts the Spartan Asia Pacific Championships' final stage. Spectators will marvel at the agility and physical and mental strength of athletes as they tackle an endurance course involving gruelling climbs, target practice, fire jumping and other challenges. Perth is hosting the 'Australian Beast' stage, across more than 21 kilometres with 30-plus obstacles, to determine the Asia Pacific champion.

Sneaker peek at Australian-exclusive show
The only Australian presentation of an acclaimed international exhibition, The Rise of Sneaker Culture, is on at the Art Gallery of Western Australia until September 4. Originating at Toronto's Bata Shoe Museum and organised by the American Federation of Arts, the free exhibition examines the sneaker's complex and fascinating social history, from its 19th century origins to present-day urban culture. Other special events at the gallery – located in the Perth Cultural Centre between the CBD and Northbridge – include a showcase of contemporary glass, Indigenous artists' personal stories and Australian landscapes.

Cabin Fever: Margaret River's newest event
The Margaret River Region is set to shake off any signs of winter hibernation with the inaugural Cabin Fever Festival, on July 14-23, which will serve up regional produce, award-winning beverages, art and entertainment in inspiring locations. Get set for chocolate, cheese and coffee, secret speakeasies, dinners and degustations, wine-fuelled crafts, bonfires, brews, live music and more. Tickets are on sale now.

FOOD AND WINE

Food and Wine Southern food trail with chestnut ale
Gourmet travellers will find it even easier to discover culinary delights in south-west WA with a new Blackwood River Valley Food Trail around the scenic towns of Balingup, Bridgetown and Nannup. Visitors can hop between wineries, cideries, retailers, restaurants, accommodation, boutique farms and producers for an all-round experience of the area's offerings, including Australia's first sweet chestnut ale at Chestnut Brae. The trail is part of a State-wide culinary tourism drive that has so far included a Cider and Ale Trail and a Sweet Temptations Trail in Perth's Swan Valley.

Sips and bites…

• MasterChef's Karmen Lu is combining sweets and drinks at Measure dessert bar, due to open in May in one of Perth's foodie hotspots – Beaufort Street in Mt Lawley. Sweet-toothed punters are on the waitlist to try peanut bavarois with brownies, brulee banana, salted caramel popcorn, dark chocolate ganache and popcorn gelato.
  
  
• Curious about kombucha? The fermented health teas can be sampled at Perth's first kombucha bar, operated by Kommunity Brew inside Fremantle's funky food and arts warehouse The Mantle.
  
  
• Margaret River's Voyager Estate will welcome a new head chef, Santiago Fernandez, on May 22. With experience at Michelin-starred restaurants and most recently at Sault in Victoria, Santiago is passionate about using local, seasonal produce, which he'll incorporate into Voyager's Discovery Menu degustations.
  
  
• A 1960s vibe, fairy floss and a balcony overlooking the Perth skyline can be found at the cheekily named Tiki as FK cocktail bar in the heart of Perth's entertainment hub, Northbridge. Designed by Gary Beadle, who's connected to Lot Twenty, Five Bar and 399, the new venue features a fluctuating cocktail menu and grilled food on skewers.
  
  
• New café Eggsluff is dishing up Asian-inspired savoury and sweet fare in the trendy Perth district of Subiaco. Start the day with the signature 'eggsluff' dish of pureed potato with herbs and a poached egg, or sample fresh rice and noodle dishes.
  
  
• Bite into a Pick Your Own Fruit experience at Core Cider House, in the Perth Hills, where the orchard is ripe with Granny Smith and Pink Lady apples, pears, persimmons, pomegranates and quince. Fruit picking is available Wednesday to Sunday, with the chance to enjoy a beverage and gourmet lunch on the Core deck.
  
  
• Two Margaret River wines have received high-profile praise. Acclaimed reviewer Ray Jordan gave his highest-ever score of 99 to Moss Wood's 2014 Wilyabrup cabernet sauvignon, produced by husband-and-wife team Keith and Clare Mugford. Meanwhile, Jamie Oliver has sung the praises of another cab sav, Leeuwin Estate's 1996 Art Series, while reminiscing about visiting Perth and the South West with the late businessman John Roberts.

TV taster of Indigenous food and lifestyle
See the unique environment and native produce of WA's South West from an Aboriginal perspective in a TV special, On Country Kitchen. Noongar comedian Derek Nannup joins well-known Indigenous chef Mark Olive on a culinary and cultural exploration of the region, meeting Indigenous tourism operators and discovering local stories and produce. The program airs nationally in Australia on NITV on May 24 at 7.30pm, before featuring on SBS, the Food Channel and internationally.

TOURS, ATTRACTIONS AND ACCOMMODATION

Lakeside glamping at Margaret River's Olio Bello
Guests can now stay on site at Olio Bello's organic olive farm in the Margaret River Region after the award-winning oil producer launched six luxury lakeside eco-tents. With a vision of providing an “integrated agricultural and tourism destination”, each bungalow has a private en suite, spacious deck and farm-made products. Guests can also wander among the 8,000 olive trees and enjoy lunch, olive oil tastings, yoga and spa treatments – and join in the Harvest Festival in May and June, when Olio Bello serves up special meals, walks and talks. The Glamping Getaway opening special is $295 per night for two nights with a gourmet breakfast hamper and late check-out.

El Questro celebrates 25 years
The start of WA's northern tourist season is particularly special for El Questro as the vast Kimberley resort celebrates its silver anniversary in 2017. Over the past 25 years, the 700,000-acre property has evolved from a rundown cattle station to an iconic retreat with unique accommodation and adventure options – surrounded by a spectacular and remote landscape that featured in the Hugh Jackman/Nicole Kidman film Australia. To mark the milestone, El Questro is offering a range of 25% off specials until October for selected stays, tours and dining.

Winds of change for Fremantle heritage hotel
The Tradewinds Hotel has unveiled revamped rooms and facilities as part of a $7 million project at the East Fremantle heritage landmark, which overlooks the Swan River and Fremantle Port. The refurbishment's first stage includes all hotel rooms, reception, a central pool area and a new licensed rooftop garden terrace. More developments planned for 2018 will continue to preserve the building's historical elements, dating back to 1897, while providing refreshed amenities for guests.

Broome sale packages and new flight
It's always warm somewhere in WA, so don't pack away the swimwear just yet. Value packages for the north-west paradise of Broome are available until May 29 for travel from August 23 this year until next March. Return flights and three nights' accommodation are on sale from $547 (ex Perth), $747 (ex Adelaide) and $847 (ex Melbourne, Sydney and Brisbane), while many hotels are throwing in bonuses such as car hire, room upgrades and dining vouchers. Plan a break around unique events such as Staircase to the Moon or Shinju Matsuri, or enjoy fresh mangoes and barramundi later in the year. Qantas is also adding a fourth weekday service between Perth and Broome from July 3. From Monday to Friday, QF2664 will depart from Perth at 1.30pm and the return service (QF2665) will take off from Broome at 5pm.

New experiences

• Hot on the heels of Busselton Jetty's first new train in more than 20 years, a redeveloped Jetty Museum is now offering interactive displays and virtual reality experiences. Housed in the boat shed-style Interpretive Centre at the 1.8 kilometre South West attraction, the museum is open seven days and entry is free.
• Ocean Alliance super yacht Akiko will be based in WA until the end of 2017, travelling the coastline from the Kimberley to the Coral Coast including the Abrolhos and Montebello Islands. The 35 metre custom expedition yacht accommodates 10 sleeping passengers and is versatile enough to enter small bays, anchor behind coral atolls and access specialist game fishing sites.
• Margaret River's Smiths Beach Resort has joined with concierge partners Experiencesmith and MR Chauffeurs to offer exclusive signature experiences to guests, including guided walks, jet-boat safaris, wine tours, private excursions and degustation experiences at Aravina Estate's best table.

App brings expert knowledge to the forest
Want to identify a rare plant, a magnificent old tree or nearby wildlife? Visitors to WA's South West forests can explore natural wonders through expert eyes thanks to the new South West NatureGuide app. The app contains more than 120 entries on flora, fauna, history and geology to keep visitors informed while exploring iconic attractions such as the Tree Top Walk, Ancient Empire Walk, William Bay National Park, Giant Tingle Tree, King Jarrah and the Gloucester, Bicentennial and Diamond trees.

Hotel deals

• Enjoy a serene city centre retreat at the multi-award-winning COMO The Treasury. Stay at the luxury hotel between Sunday and Thursday before August 31 and receive 15% off the COMO Daily Rate for two-night stays or 20% off for three nights across all room categories. Guests in COMO's elegant suites can also now enjoy even more inclusions with a bottle of Taittinger Champagne, daily breakfast, a deluxe in-room private bar (replenished daily), late check-out and complimentary valet parking.
• Promotions at Ramada Eco Beach Resort in Broome include 'stay three, pay two' at a beach house, half-price midweek glamping until October and a romance package with bonus food, wine and spa experiences.

FEATURE

WA's whale tale – year-round encounters
Whether it's swimming alongside dolphins, spotting the legendary blue whale or following 35,000 migrating humpbacks, cetacean species of all shapes and sizes are the stars of WA's year-round whale watching experiences.

From May to July, witness the start of an epic journey along the west coast – dubbed the Humpback Highway – as humpback whales head north from the food-rich Southern Ocean to breed in the warm Kimberley waters. During the return journey, from September to December, look out for mothers and calves even closer to shore.

Naturalise Charters operates humpback tours in the South West, where the giants are often seen slapping tails, popping up for a curious look or leaping from the water (breaching) – on one occasion up to 15 times, including two jumping together. "During peak times, 20 or more humpbacks are easily witnessed from the boat and whale-initiated interactions are very common indeed," skipper Malcom Bush says.

Further north, you can get even closer to the humpbacks with an in-water interaction tour from August to November at Ningaloo Reef, which is already famous for its swimming experiences with other gentle giants – whale sharks – from March to July. Although technically not whales (they're the world's biggest fish), whale sharks can measure a whopping 18 metres. World Heritage Listed Ningaloo offers unrivalled opportunities to swim alongside the majestic creatures as they congregate to feed.

Not big enough? Earth's largest-ever creature – the blue whale – can be reliably seen off the Perth coast in March and April when the 'dinosaurs of the deep' feast in a vast underwater food bowl. Whale Watch Western Australia recently launched Australia's only public blue whale tours, with 10 of the giants sighted on one trip. "They can be really inquisitive," Whale Watch's Drew Sharp says of the blue whales. "This big fellow, 22 metres long, came up and checked us right out. Their lungs are the size of a small car so you can imagine the noise."

On WA's south coast, another nutrient-rich canyon, Bremer Canyon, is emerging as a top spot for seeing the southern hemisphere's largest pod of orcas (killer whales) as well as sperm, pilot, fin and beaked whales. Naturaliste Charters operates Bremer Canyon tours from January to March, and Malcolm says he's constantly surprised by the diversity of marine life and rare seabirds. "We've seen the full fury of an all-out orca predation on a beaked whale – a very intense and emotional event – and teenage sperm whales breaching and causing a general ruckus through a big maternal pod," he says.

No discussion of WA's whales would be complete without mentioning the smaller cetaceans, dolphins, which are abundant throughout the State. Cruise alongside them through Mandurah's canals near Perth, spot rare snubfins in Broome's Roebuck Bay, get close to the friendly pod that visits Monkey Mia every day, or swim with them at Rockingham and Bunbury.

• Dolphins – Year-round, Statewide Orcas – January-March (Bremer Canyon)
• Blue whales – March-April (Perth), May-June (Albany), November-December (Dunsborough)
• Whale sharks* – March-July (Ningaloo) *Note: whale sharks are fish not whales
• Humpback whales – May-August (Albany, Augusta), June-November (Kalbarri to Broome), August-November (Ningaloo swimming tours), September-December (Dunsborough, Perth)
• Southern right whales – August to October (Albany, Augusta)

EVENTS

June
Margaret River Readers and Writers Festival
June 2-4 | Margaret River | Australia's South West
Be inspired and entertained at WA's biggest regional literary festival with a stellar line-up of Australian and international authors, journalists, comedians, illustrators, magazine editors, screen writers and radio hosts. In 2017, the spectacular Margaret River Region welcomes headline guest Michael Palin plus Robert Drewe, Joan London, Nicole Sinclair, Rashida Murphy, Kerry O'Brien, Jane Caro, Clementine Ford, Tim Costello, Stephanie Alexander, Bruce Pascoe and many more.

Leonora Golden Gift
June 2-5, 2017 | Leonora | Australia's Golden Outback
Elite athletes, $50,000 up for grabs and an outback town's main street for a track… Welcome to the Leonora Golden Gift – Australia's richest mile running race – in the historical heartland of WA's gold rush. Now in its 15th year, the Gift is part of a full weekend of entertainment including dirt-track horse racing, fireworks, market stalls, bands and street entertainment in Leonora, a two-hour drive north of Kalgoorlie, near ghost towns and Antony Gormley's statues at Lake Ballard.

Truffle Kerfuffle
June 23-25, 2017 | Manjimup | Australia's South West
The black truffle is the third most expensive food in the world, and 70% of Australia's supply comes from the tranquil Southern Forests around Manjimup and Pemberton. Truffle Kerfuffle presented by Genuinely Southern Forests is a weekend of hands-on activities built around searching for and sampling the rare delicacy in the heart of truffle country. Paul West and Jack Stein join a host of culinary talent on site at tranquil Fonty's Pool for this must-do event on WA's flourishing food and wine calendar.

July
Mowanjum Festival 
July 6 | Derby | Australia's North West
One of WA's biggest cultural celebrations is hosted each year by the Mowanjum Art and Culture Centre, on the rugged Gibb River Road in the Kimberley. The unique Mowanjum Festival brings together locals and visitors to share the vibrant, living culture of the Ngarinyin, Worrorra and Wunambal peoples through powerful traditional dances and story-telling under the vast northern skies near Derby.

Broome International Airport Marathon
July 16 | Broome | Australia's North West
Perfect weather, hard-packed sand and panoramic views make Broome's superb Cable Beach an ideal venue for this marathon, which is accompanied by a vibrant festival and other races. Runners and walkers have the choice of a 10.5 kilometre challenge, a 21.1 kilometre half-marathon or the full 42.2 kilometre marathon.

A Taste of Broome
July–September | Broome | Australia's North West
The Kimberley pearling town of Broome comes to life during this multi-arts, culinary and cultural festival that celebrates the local rich Indigenous heritage and diverse cultures. Immerse your senses in food, dance, tradition, culture, music and film as the 2017 event marks 75 years since World War Two attacks in the area and 50 years since the 1967 referendum on Aboriginal people.

August
Avon Descent
August 5-6 | Northam to Bayswater | Experience Perth
Since 1973, participants and spectators have been thrilled by this iconic event and its picturesque but challenging 124 kilometre course. A unique blend of power dinghies and paddle-craft pass through some of WA's prettiest country – the historic farming regions of Northam and Toodyay, forested national parks, steep gorges, Swan Valley vineyards and the tidal waters of Perth's Swan River.

Gascoyne Food Festival
August 10-13 | Carnarvon | Australia's Coral Coast
Head to the tropical oasis of Carnarvon, 900 kilometres north of Perth, and discover why the Gascoyne region is one of Australia's top food bowls. Against the backdrop of the mighty Gascoyne River, red earth and fertile horticultural lands, the festival celebrates the area's abundant local fruits, vegetables, beef and seafood, and tells the fascinating story of how they are cultivated.

Nannup Flower and Garden Festival
August 17-20 | Nannup | Australia's South West
See why relaxed and rural Nannup is known as the “garden village”. Nestled by the Blackwood River – around three hours' drive south of Perth – the tranquil town is a perfect winter getaway during the annual Flower and Garden Festival, which encompasses open gardens, workshops, unique arts and crafts, and displays of vintage cars and bikes.